A Couture Model’s Behind-The-Scenes View of Fashion by Louise Parker
"Ugly is attractive, ugly is exciting. Maybe because it is newer,” she said. “The investigation of ugliness is, to me, more interesting than the bourgeois idea of beauty. And why? Because ugly is human. It touches the bad and the dirty side of people. You know, this might have been a scandal in fashion but in other fields of art it is common: in painting and in movies, it was so common to see ugliness. But, yes, it was not used in fashion and I was very much criticized for inventing the trashy and the ugly. ”
“The novelist Flaubert hated the rituals of bourgeois life. You do, also, don’t you?”
“For sure. And we have to define what these rituals are.”
“Ah, for sure,” she said. “By definition good taste is horrible taste. I do have a healthy disrespect for those values. I don’t want to sound like a snob, but it comes very easy to me. I have to say that, although I rejected those values for a lot of my life, it was not for very noble reasons. Let’s just say that. I have to be honest. I don’t feel it was very good or very noble to feel more cultured or superior.”
Prada pleases herself, and she does it with dedication. She makes what she wants to make, which may be why other designers are not only touched by her aesthetic but appear to have graduated from her school of thinking. “Prada’s designs stem from an inner vision of herself,” said the New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn, “and plainly it’s filled with images from Italian films and conflicts involving beauty. But the upshot is a tangled, what-a-woman sexiness.”
Yet there may be an essence in Prada’s work that says no to self-satisfaction. It doesn’t say: “You’re lovely. You deserve this. You’re worth it.” It says something more like, “Who are you? Dare to find out. And dare to be otherwise.”
By Andrew O’Hagan for New York Times Magazine (x)
arthur kleinjan, paris looks. 1999-2001
Between 1999 and 2001, the artist spent hours perched in a balcony above the Sacré Coeur church in Paris, watching the people below. As tourists struck poses for souvenir snapshots, he would take a second photograph from behind.
“Sometimes it takes a few seconds for their friends to get the camera ready, and they suddenly don’t know what to do with their bodies. They ask themselves, what leg do I stand on? A bag, or a bottle of water should be out of the image, so they keep it behind their back. They design themselves into what they think is a nice picture … I wanted to show the moment of alteration, as the tourists transform themselves into an image. They seem very self-conscious about the way they look. Vulnerability is revealed. Their discomfort with their own body, as they stand there, is isolated in time and space, waiting to become a future memory.” (x)
Winged eye makeup by Peter Phillips at Christian Dior Resort 2015
To create this graphic look, makeup artist Peter Phillips used Dior Addict It-Liner to trace the top and bottom lashes, extending the lines out but keeping them very straight. “It’s not too curved. We wanted to focus on the eye but not make a big makeup statement,” Phillips said, noting that he and designer Raf Simons had chosen black liner so that the makeup wouldn’t clash with the bright colors and busy patterns in the collection.
Next, Philips added a shimmery pink shadow on the lid and an iridescent white shadow between the two black lines at the outer corner. “I used pink on the lid because white would look too pearly. The pink blends in better and creates a subtler highlight.”
He then used a flat brush to trace black shadow over the liquid liner. “It helps soften the line and creates this beautiful velvet finish,” he said. “But it also helps set the liner and keeps the shadows on the eye from making the black liner look gray.”
I’m wishing on rain drops and hoping you’ll stay.
An Eremin fan mix based on the fic Wishing on Raindrops
AKA: The songs I listen to when writing Eremin. So it applies pretty broadly to the pairing I suppose.
Beside You - Mariana’s Trench // Never Stop (Acoustic) - Safetysuit // Right Here - Ashes Remain // I Can’t Not Love You - Every Avenue // Anywhere But Here - Mayday Parade // Rest - Nevertheless // Wait For You - Artist vs. Poet // Speechless - The Veronicas // Goodnight Moon - Go Radio // Prove You Wrong - He Is We // Anywhere But Here - Safetysuit // Stay With Me - Sam Smith // By Your Side - Lifehouse // Somebody’s Heartbreak - Hunter Hayes // Only Place I Call Home - Every Avenue // Featherstone - The Paper Kites // Come What May - The Scene Aesthetic // Hold Onto Me - Mayday Parade // The Storm - Elenowen
tacky is the most disgusting word in style vocabulary
but i really love “gauche” as a positive, no?
i love the word gauche. it’s thrilling and lush, it reminds me of a pink water bed with lots of money on topI’m defending tacky, it’s a very exciting word to me. in a state of disrepair, in poor taste and sicking to everything. tar and feathers, broken windows. plus it has a good sound, the “ck-ie”
i think it is exciting to me partly because there’s no word in my language (swedish) that is “tacky”, to me it exists only in english, meaning there is an inherent distance in my using it becuase (to me) it’s so connected to british and north american culture. even though I think I’ve been somewhat aware of its violent use ever since I learned the word, it has still always been a word that comes with a powerful presence, it’s very attractive and enchanting. (which may or may not be part of said classism)
oh yeah that’s interesting! the space between words in languages is fascinating. i’d love a compilation of untranslatable words about class and fashion and identity, i bet there’s a lot in different languages. it peeks into the anxiety and priority of class visibility and clothes into each culture. if a word doesn’t exist does it mean it’s not as important? if there are twenty different kinds of ways to say an idea does it mean it’s always on the mind? i love words.